Hanoi

 

NOTE: Mine & Other peoples hints & suggestions (mainly from LP Thorn tree) that I have collated can be found either HERE (PDF from 2002) or HERE (PDF's from 2003) Many kind thanks to those that answered mine or others queries . There is all sorts of possibly USEFUL info there that will be repetitive if I keep putting it in each page.

 

 

Ah Hanoi …. one of our favourite cities. We confess to being a little nervous about returning to Vietnam after our experiences in Cambodia but fortunately the magic of Vietnam remains. Personally I have romantic thoughts as to how it must have been in the 1930’s, similar to my dreams of Shanghai, however they are but romantic thoughts. I imagine the life for locals under colonialism was no bed of roses for most.

There is lots to do in Hanoi that can be gathered from other places, or your guidebook if you must, so suffice to say we wont be providing directions to the Water Puppets or similar institutions. In fact, we will say little about Hanoi at all – however, it deserves time to allow it’s charm to insinuate into your heart & senses. Our first visit consisted of almost 8 days in this city and it’s pace & vitality was revealed. Take your time to amble about, relax, drink coffee and take in the daily life.

The food can be exceptional. There are plenty of places catering for the Western fare or hybrids of Viet/ Western food. Seek out some “authentic” food & try the street restaurants. As long as the ingredients are well cooked then your stomach will survive. Point at the ingredients you fancy and let the chef loose !!! Some restaurants in a more traditional sense we can recommend are:

 

*        Little Hanoi @ 25 Ta Hien Str

This restaurant has expanded by the time you read this to across the street as well. Not to be confused with another Little Hanoi nearer the lake & the church. (It amazes us the way that the same business name can be used in close location to each other. I think there are 3 Camellia Hotels in Hanoi for example)

It needed to expand as there were too many big groups there this time which affected the food & service markedly. That said, the food is delicious & it is a small family run business ran well. Please make sure if you order wine you empty your bottle – we observed the mother tip the leftovers from some party back into the restaurants house wine bottle – “selective blending” ???

UPDATE --- The new restaurant is now open & a little less claustrophobic than the Original if the temperature is hot.

*        Minh Minh Café @ 32 Le Thai To Str  (near the lakeside café on the edge of Hoan Kiem)

http://www.hanoi-minhminhcafe.com            Tel: 8.288.820

There are two benefits to this place and they are both for the daytime. One, it’s air-conditioned, and two, the 20,000VND Businessman Lunch which is fantastic value and tasty too.

*      Indochine @ 16 Pho Nam Ngu

An upmarket restaurant by Vietnamese standards for sure but well worth a splurge. Maybe have a snack first elsewhere  

The food is excellent & the wine list is good if you are missing the grape.

*        Dinh Lang Thuy Ta @ 1st Floor #1 Le Thai To Str (Lakeside between the Old ¼ & ANZ Bank)

Tel: 8.286.290

Considering it’s location overlooking the Lake we expected this to be overpriced and full of tour groups. Were we pleasantly surprised ?

Meal prices were similar to some backpacker joints yet the presentation and menu were excellent. Another bonus is the beautiful traditional music played at night.

UPDATE --- Still great value & good food

Pics from Dinh Lang Thuy Ta

 

Coffee, hmmmm, great coffee. We are fans of the Vietnamese drip coffee so we went to Dong Xuan Market at the north end of Hoan Kiem lake towards West Lake, and bought a couple of stainless steel dripolators for about 30000VND. They are now making the nicest rich coffee brews at home. This is a good market to visit. Scissors are a great buy and shoes etc are very cheap. You can bargain at this market with success.

 

Note: Re Bargaining in Asia ------- haggling the price is an essential in Asia. Some people go to extreme lengths to shave another 10 cents off the price, often in a brash aggressive manner. Bargaining is a pleasant experience if done with a smile & good humour and will often achieve a better price. It is not a war - think about the last time you spent a goodly amount in a bar/ restaurant/ newsagent at home and paid a lot more than you expected. We dont bargain prices in the West, and the perception of Western tourists in Asia for some Asians, is one of unbridled wealth (an irony that is hard to explain),but can we ALL please be realistic in our expectations as to the price to pay? So you paid more than a local ? - you paid a lot less than at home. This is not a plea to allow yourself to be "ripped off" but a 'reminder' to equate the quoted price to what you would pay at home and be "reasonable" in the price you intend paying where you are. If you pay more than a local, be assurred it wont be wasted by the recipient.

 

The big thing you will notice in SE Asia is the predominance of motorbikes as a means of transport. Something like 2 million motorbikes will be registered in Vietnam alone this year !!! The first time visitor to Vietnam fears crossing the road in the larger cities. Hiring a bicycle or motorbike seems a risk tantamount to wishfull suicide. Your best photos are likely to be "how much can I load on this bike/ motorbike/ bus/ truck/ cyclo".

Here is our perception of the rules:

 

If you go to a smaller place, this is your opportunity to try other types of self-driven transport. Drive a car if you are insane or have a horn fetish. But a bicycle or motorbike is an ideal way to explore the surrounding countryside. We practised in a smaller town and with 4 days practise found that Hanoi when we returned, getting about by motorbike seemed easy ---- "comparatively". However, if in any doubt ---- DONT DO IT. Also, before you hire transport - test brakes and locks work. Also note the ID/ Numberplate number. Most restaurants/ venues have "secure parking" and some require 1000-2000 Dong payment - it pays to ask the place you are at what it may or not cost to retrieve your vehicle.

The most important factor is that 'self transport' gives you a level of independence to explore the backstreets and side-alleys, as well as the outskirts. If you dont feel confident then dont do it.Above all travel slowly and with absolute alertness.

The ANZ bank in Hoan Kiem has 2 ATM machines now.

UPDATE --- The ANZ now has 3 ATM's!

If you have your guidebook stashed away and dont look too touristy ---- the postcard sellers can be repelled to some extent by claiming that "you live/work in Hanoi". Worked for us a treat

 

 

Hanoi Fotos 2002

Hanoi Fotos 2003

 

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